The Bell, Salford Priors

THE Bell has one of those front doors where you go one way for the bar and another for the nosh. It’s a hallmark of an old pub, and one I always expect will mean “a bit pokey inside”, but the Bell is not. It’s roomy and feels comfy, which is always a good start.

And at the risk of peaking too soon in this review, the Bell does just what it says on the sign outside – country pub and dining.

You have a pleasant atmosphere (staff are friendly and competent) an airy dining area and an inviting beer garden for these warm spring days we’re all enjoying.

Planting my backside on a comfy, high-backed chair, my dining partner and I looked at the day’s menu.

I was pleased to see plenty of support for the county’s burgeoning produce economy, with meat from Badsey butchers, cheese and other items from Hiller’s farm shop and bread from Lawrence’s of Evesham.

After a short time, we were asked for our choices and I started with the smoked haddock rarebit (£4.95) while my partner had the tipsy chicken pâté (£4.95) The rarebit was tasty, and not over-smoked while not losing the strong flavour of the haddock, and the fish always goes well with cheese. A salad including peppery rocket and tomato (a touch soft for my liking) went down well, with its balsamic vinegar and olive oil dressing.

My partner usually has the paté as starter wherever she goes and being down-to-earth types we were both happy to see it was pâté listed on the menu, rather than some more pretentious word. The owners clearly share our scorn of gastro-pubs, stating in their menu “you won’t find a jus here”.

A refreshing philosophy.

The pâté was smooth, with a good ratio of toast to pâté (too many restaurants get this wrong) and a “yummy” sweet red onion chutney.

The honey and mustard dressing on the salad won’t suit all tastes, but my partner liked the strong flavour.

Round two arrived in the form of pork belly (£12.95) for me and a slow-cooked lamb shank (£14.25) for my partner.

Unfortunately for my waistline, I’ve developed a taste for finely cooked pork belly.

The Bell’s effort is a good attempt and rightly priced for the effort. The rich and full meaty flavour was intact, the meat juicy and tender.

The vegetables which accompanied both our dishes were lovingly steamed and delicious, particularly the potatoes.

My partner enjoyed the lamb shank, tender and falling off the bone, the meat coming away in chunks, without too much fat to impede the flow of fork to mouth.

Again, it was a good effort and a good dish.

For dessert I jumped on the bread and butter pudding (£3.95) while my partner had the chocolate brownie (£5.45).

The pudding was stodge heaven, chewy and yielding in equal measure and good English pub fare.

My partner found the brownie filling – I had warned her in advance – but it remains the best way to enjoy chocolate as a dessert in any country, so she was happy.

The whole lot with (mostly soft) drinks came in about £60, and we left satisfied, uncomplaining and stuffed, which is as it should be.

HOW IT RATED

Food: 4 (br> Service: 5
Value for money: 4
Ambience: 4