Ask the expert

Q: have a Haflinger who is two in April. I intend to start long reining him him (having been doing groundwork for some time) and am very keen on natural horsemanship. I am going to start long reining him using a dually halter (Monty Roberts).

Eventually I will need to progress to a bitted bridle, but would like some advice on which bits would be most sympathetic to my youngster to get the right start for him. How do you fit a bit before actually trying it on the horse itself - is there a way of measuring the mouth?

A: Haflingers are very attractive ponies and strong for their size. I agree that work in hand can be a very useful bond and discipline for a two year old.

However, you must remember the bones and muscles are still growing and are weak so you must not work too much on a circle as it could cause trouble.

At two, all the milk teeth are through and the permanent incisors appear so the pony will show signs of teething.

Mouthing bits are very useful at first as it encourages the pony to mouth and develop a wet mouth. These are straight bits with keys at the centre. An eggbut snaffle prevents the bit from pinching and helps keep it still in the mouth. I prefer to use a full cheek snaffle with extended cheek pieces to prevent the bit from sliding through the mouth and it encourages the horse to steer.

The snaffle bit hangs in the corners so that the mouth is slightly wrinkled and the pony appears to be smiling. To check the width place your index fingers between the mouth and the bit rings. The bit should fit snugly but you need slightly more room for a loose ring snaffle.

More problems occur at this stage of a pony's career than at any other and do not be frightened to get professional help if needed.

Q: I have a three-year-old (rising) 14.2 native-type whom I bought as just backed.

I turned him out for October, November and December to grow a bit and so I could get to know him through lots of handling.

I have now begun lungeing and long reining him which he does well although he often takes some encouragement to go forwards.

I have now ridden him gently a couple of times but am a bit stuck as to what to do now.

He seems to either hurtle forwards in a fast walk or unbalanced trot, or will barely move. Should I continue riding him and if so I would appreciate advice on how to achieve a constant, steady pace, or would it be better to turn him away for another few months?

A: All young horses must feel well and be in good condition to break and ride on. Make sure he has been wormed, had his teeth done and check his mouth is not sore from the bit or teeth and his feet are in good order.

He may need shoes on if he is getting sore. It is very important that his tack fits well.

If you feel that he is going to grow or is still weak I suggest you just back him and turn him away for a few months.

If lunging him I would keep it to a minimum and make sure that it is on level going as over-lungeing a weak or young horse can cause stiffness and lameness.

Even a young horse must accept the aids and the bit, go forward in a rhythm and develop straightness from a level rein contact.

If possible, I would get your horse out hacking on the roads and tracks with a companion. Half an hour is plenty to start with, then build up to a hour, mainly walking with a little trotting and a small canter up a slight hill after a couple of weeks.

Increase the feed slowly and keep turning out.

A young horse is weak and has little muscle development so ride him lightly in a young horse light seat with shorter stirrups so you can get off his back more.

Never forget the importance of a coaching session to make sure you are going along the right lines. You could even take your companion as a lead.

Q: I enjoy hacking and schooling my horse but I also like to show him and have had some success in ridden classes, small show jumping classes and prelim and novice level unaffiliated dressage.

However, I could do with some advice on the best tack for him and gear for me. As it is fairly low-level competition, I can't afford different tack and clothes for every class so what would suit best?

I really enjoy the dressage but a dressage saddle would restrict me to flat work.

I have never tried working hunter but would like to have a go at that. Do I need a double bridle?

What kind of saddle is best?

Would I be better wearing a blue-ish wool tweed jacket as I have been doing or a blue or black show jacket?

A: A good GP saddle should suit your needs. Try not to get too high a saddle in the front or back with small but comfortable knee rolls.

Make sure the saddle is level and you can sit in the centre even in sitting trot without stirrups!

You should be able to stay in balance with shorter stirrups out of the saddle with a shoulder- knee-toe line and still be able to have your knees on the saddle flap.

The saddle must fit you and the horse so as to be comfortable for both of you which will help your horse's movement.

If you show, try not to use a numnah or just a small plain one, get rid of the sparkly brow bands.

If you are worried about a double bridle, why don't you try to borrow a Pelham?

Use two small leather reins.

For you, wear a good pair of leather or string gloves, a correctly tied stock or, preferably, a tie with an ordinary shirt and a tiepin.

Use fawn or buff (not white) breeches and garter straps on your leather boots.

Spurs should be used for showing and are worn high. Your bluish tweed jacket sounds fine but it must fit well.

The cleanliness of your horse and yourself is most important.

Try to get away with as little tack as you can. It should all fit well as should your clothes.

Q: In spring, summer and autumn I can't catch my horse. Food doesn't work and the nearest I can get is about two horse lengths away.

You can herd her into a pen about the size of a stable but you still can't get her.

We have tried tethering her but she just ran off and broke it.

I have known this horse for nine years but have only owned her for eight weeks as she was going to be shot because her previous owner had had enough.

I can do anything with her once we have caught her.

She suffers from sweet itch so she really needs to be caught so I can treat it.

The only other thing is to leave her stabled 24/7 but I don't think that is fair.

A: What a problem! I suggest you start feeding your pony at the same time and place each day.

Do not try to catch her. When she is happy coming for a feed in the same place, start to build a corral shaped as a bottleneck but with a gate at both ends of the narrow neck.

Feed the pony at the same place without any gate being shut.

To start, close the gate behind her so she does not learn to run backwards.

Take your time and keep feeding her.

When he is not nervous, close the gate in front as well.

You may have to lasso her at first with a rope round her neck to get a head collar on her, then leave the head collar on her with a small rope attachment. I hope this helps!