If you remember the Country Girl Inn in Stoke Prior as a fairly ordinary countryside pub, you'll be pleasantly surprised with the huge changes made since its new owners took over in May.

Along with a complete refurbishment, bringing in a touch of contemporary style while retaining the building's historic character, the Country Girl now boasts a head chef, Sean Kyle, who has cooked for the England under-21 football team, plus an inspiring wine list compiled by director Tim Churchman, who also manages his own wine merchants business.

"The wine really is a unique selling point," says Tim, whose impressive background in the catering industry - he trained as a chef before going into hotel management; working for the biggest wine merchants in the UK; and opening various pubs as a consultant - makes him an ideal person to revamp the Country Girl's image.

The great choice of wine, plus the benefit of Tim's extensive knowledge, is not the only special feature. The menu, created by the aforementioned Sean in his first head chef's position, incorporates fresh, local produce and provides plenty of dishes that are low in salt, fat and cholesterol. "Sean's experience of cooking for athletes means he already knows how to adapt recipes to make them healthier," explains Tim.

One of the unusual services offered is that Tim and his staff will recommend the perfect wine to complement the dish you choose. If, like me, you know next to nothing about wine, this is an excellent way to pick up a little knowledge and ensure your meal is enjoyed to the full, with wine available in a glass, carafe or full bottle.

Before the meal, Tim matched my request for "something fruity" with a glass of the house red, a Cabernet Sauvignon called Fruits of France, said to be good for drinking without food. He suggested trying a different wine with each course - an offer I was not about to refuse, though my companion and chauffeur was stuck with J2O!

It was a good job the beverage decisions were being made by Tim as the menu already gave us some tough choices. Having decided, in the interests of a more extensive food review, that we would not both pick the same thing, there was nearly a fight over who ordered the soup of the day, which was apple and chilli.

In the end I went for the smoked salmon with pickled cucumber dressing and baby capers (on the understanding that I would get to taste the soup), and I was certainly not disappointed with the smooth, summery taste and artistic presentation of my starter. The highly-unusual soup had the perfect balance of sweet and zingy flavours, managing to taste rustic and sophisticated all at once.

Tim recommended an Italian white wine called Garganega, which duly provided a crisp accompaniment to a fish dish and came close to being my favourite of the night, even though I don't normally drink white. He pointed out that wine tastes different alone than it does with food, and this was again proved with the main course, when a Spanish Tempranillo was chosen to match my pan-fried chicken with tomato basil cassola and thyme jus.

With the chicken cooked to perfection in a golden crispy skin, and the cassola packed with tasty tomato and beans, this was one of the best main courses I have tasted. Across the table, the blade of beef with garlic mash and baby onions was also judged to be "just right."

The dessert menu again provided a varied choice, and the final beverage of the evening was to be a Chateau Haut Roquefort Cadillac, described as "deliciously smooth and sticky with a great finish, to accompany any pud!" I picked rum roasted pineapple with butterscotch and caramel ice cream, which I thought might be too sweet, but the caramelised, warm fruit encased in a cute little pot was as spot-on as everything else.

My companion's lemongrass and basil bavarois was something of a wild card choice, but despite the slightly surreal discovery that it tasted a bit like pesto, the basil actually worked very well with the soft lemon after-taste. The meal was rounded off with a cappuccino while we chatted with Sean who, despite having cooked at Bank, Paris and Le Manoir, revealed that he has no formal chef's training.

With a two-course dinner costing just £14.95, the Country Girl offers the chance to sample some really unusual and flavoursome food at an affordable price. The lunch menu features lighter meals and home-made sandwiches, while the special Christmas party menus are attracting a lot of custom.

Wine dinners, involving a six-course meal with wine tasting, are proving very popular and Tim has already had to add an extra date. Plans for an on-site tasting room or shop are under consideration, to further link Tim's two businesses.

"We still have a dedicated drinking area for our loyal regulars," Tim adds, "with a choice of three guest bitters and a guest lager as well as spirits and wine." With a new garden area and outdoor bar planned for the summer, the Country Girl is well on the way to being one of the Bromsgrove area's top venues.

The Country Girl, Hanbury Road, Stoke Prior, Bromsgrove Tel: 01527 821790