EMILY SHELLEY when she goes off the beaten track in this Arab state.

B efore I set off on my adventure in Oman -- with headscarf, lip salve and about four litres of water at the ready -- everybody I knew

or met told me that the stars there would be "amazing".

People who had been on similar camping excursions in Dubai, Egypt and Tunisia raved about the unspoiled view of the sky on an Arabian night as being one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences.

Armed only with this gem of expectation and a handful of stereotype images,my first trip to the Middle East began in Muscat, Oman's capital.This lush, tropical looking city, with grand white residences plotted in neat blocks and rich green palm trees lining its wide roads, couldn't have been further away from the bustling, dusty place I had imagined.

Backed by rocky mountains, the city lies on the Arabian Sea, and has several long sandy beaches lined with modern, upmarket hotels. Since Oman has mainly avoided the futuristic high-rises of Dubai, a sense of its rich history survives alongside the five-star developments and glossy shopping centres.

The old port area in particular, where the fish market and souk attract local and foreign bargain-hunters alike, is worth exploring on foot. For a better view of the dramatic surrounding coastline, and a glimpse of the Sultan's palace and the 16th century forts which guard the city's harbour, a boat trip is a must. If you are luckier than us, you might see some dolphins on the way.

Other must-see attractions include the Grand Mosque, which dominates the skyline towards the centre of the city, and the many museums detailing the long seafaring heritage of Oman, its ancient Islamic roots and the varied natural wonders to be seen here.

While it's not a good idea to go about in extremely revealing clothing, Oman is a relaxed country where all religions are respected. If anything, I began to regret packing oversized long-sleeved cotton shirts when most tourists were perfectly presentable in shorts and T-shirts.

The best time to visit is probably between October and April, when temperatures are hot but bearable.Though Arabic is the official language, English is widely spoken.

With the usual holiday watersports on offer at the hotel, and burgeoning dive centres dotted along the coast, there's much to occupy any visitor here, but the city couldn't hold our group for long. We were bound for adventure, and packed up a 4x4 to head inland.

We soon realised we were in for a rare experience as the slick new roads of the coast gave way to the climbing dirt tracks of the interior.Amid giant boulders and stark black peaks we came across pockets of lush vegetation, clear springs and dense carpets of brightly coloured flowers.

Cool white villages stacked into cultivated hillsides appeared by surprise on a bend in the track, as children from nearby farms waved at us from the backs of Range Rovers on their way home from school.

Walking along a dried up wadi half-a-kilometre wide, we picked up countless fossils and picnicked in the shade of lone palm trees in eerie silence.Then, driving through bumpy narrow canyon beds we spotted troglodyte caves high up in the soft sandy rock, before climbing to the highest point in the Al Dakhilya region to gaze on the

desert plains below. The truly spectacular scenery was worth every bump and grind in the long drive.

Stopping for some sundown refreshment in the market town of Nizwa, with its imposing 17th century fort, we shared sweet cake and strong black coffee with the men breaking their fast in the square, while one of our guides phoned ahead to the Bedouin family we would be staying with in the desert.

Yes, it appeared even the old tribal groups were now equipped with mobile phones in this oil-rich nation, but a seemingly shared prosperity didn't appear to have dampened cultural traditions -- if anything, it may have allowed them to continue.

In every village we passed there was a school, a permanently staffed hospital or clinic and a 4x4 vehicle for public use, all provided, we were told, in an effort to allow people to continue their age-old rural way of life.

I was glad our Bedouin hosts were furnished with 21st century communication when we got lost in the pitch-black sand dunes hours later. Finally spotting the camp after some scary near-crashes with camels,we pulled up alongside penned chickens and goats, unsure what to expect.

Ushered into a straw-fenced area covered with rugs and matting, we could see shadowy shapes cooking and murmuring in the covered living quarters beyond. Served by the giggly children of the family, we ate fried chicken and rice with our fingers and later drank tea while the men and boys sang and danced for us, before being forced to return the favour with some songs of our own.

As we wearily climbed into our sleeping bags it occurred to me that there was no form of electricity out here and the heavens above had been lighting our evening. Looking up at the vast dome of twinkling stars, it was more than the "amazing" sight I had been expecting -- but hopefully not once-in-a-lifetime.

TRAVEL FACTS

Emily Shelley flew with Gulf Air to Oman as a guest of Oman Tourism. Gulf Air operates daily direct flights from Heathrow to Muscat (0870 777 1717 and www.gulfair.com). Oman visas can be arranged through travel agents.

Visit www.omantourism.gov.om for more information.

Emily stayed at the InterContinental Muscat (00 968 2468 0000/www.intercontinental.com). Her soft adventure tour was arranged by Muscat Diving & Adventure Centre, which also fixes overnight desert trips, trekking, sea kayaking, rock climbing, scuba diving and other activities. Visit www.holiday-in-oman.com for more details.

Operators to Oman include ThomsonWorldwide with an Arabian Gulf and Beyond programme (0870 160 7429 or www.thomsonworldwide.co.uk)

Other operators include Tapestry (020 8235 7700), Discover Oman (0870 755 8477), Cox & Kings (020 7873 5000), Somak (020 8423 3000).