And what a view -- on a clear day you can even see North Africa. But while the former Roman settlement of Gaucin is spectacular, it's just the start of the sights you'll come across in stunning Andalucia, writes Jane Kirby.

An array of spectacular mountains stretch out before us as we navigate our hire car round the twisty bends on the way to Gaucin.

For an hour after leaving Gibraltar, we've enjoyed dazzling coastal views as we climb the hills across Andalucia. The sun is setting, leaving a dusty red ribbon over the tops of the mountains, and the tiny white villages of Ronda and beyond are a breathtaking sight.

Our home for the next week is the Old Forge, a beautiful stone house with private pool, nestling just a few miles from Gaucin. Mandarin and lime trees are dotted around the gardens and the view is of miles and miles of unspoilt landscape.

Gaucin is a tiny mountain village with a population of 2,000 and a handful of intimate restaurants and bars. It's perfect if you want peace and quiet for a week or two but, as we discovered, it is also an ideal location from which to explore the rest of Andalucia.

The village commands sweeping views of the Rif mountains of

North Africa and for most of the year is decked out with wild orchids, sweet jasmine, red poppies and lush olive groves. About 2,000ft above sea level, this place was once a Roman settlement and has a tumultuous history.

The Castillo del Aguila (Eagle's Castle) dates from Roman times and despite once being expanded into a fortress, it is now lovingly used by locals for concerts and flamenco dancing.

About 20 miles north of Gaucin is the impressive town of Ronda, rising high from the plateau and separated into an old and new town by a deep gorge. Visitors who peer over the 18th-century bridge to take in the stunning views also find the town brimming with boutiques and pavement cafes as well as reasonably-priced restaurants.

For less than 15 euros each, we feasted on gazpacho, aubergines griddled with honey, steamed mussels and mellow red wine. After a stroll around the shops, we perched ourselves on the edge of the cliffs to watch the sun set.

The rest of Andalucia and its spectacular Costa de la Luz, to the west, is equally impressive. Within reach on all but the hottest days, the ever-popular centre of Seville is a two hour drive north of Ronda. Despite being home to thousands of businesses, the city has retained its natural charm.

The Parque de Maria Luisa is one of the most stunning open spaces in Europe, with carefully-tended flower beds and fountains. For 30 euros, a horse and carriage will take you round the best sights on the way to Plaza D'Espana.

Set in a semi-circle, the Plaza is a medley of ornate Spanish tiles and quaint little bridges all set off by a large fountain. The walls of the Plaza are divided into the regions of Spain, with each set of tiles depicting the sights and culture of that area.

Seville's cathedral also captures the essence of the city, with its imposing structures and lavish architectural detail. Entry is seven euros but it is well worth the money for the bronze altarpiece alone.

After our trip to Seville, we returned to Gaucin ready for a few lazy days spent by the pool.

With hot and sunny weather stretching from May well into October, we decided to make the most of the Andalucian temperatures. A few days rest, spent reading, swimming, barbecueing and making friends with neighbouring cows, enabled us to recharge our batteries enough to set off on the road again.

First stop was the town of Tarifa -- southernmost tip of Europe -- where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic. Its windy atmosphere makes it a surfer's paradise and its wild, rugged coastline attracts a menagerie of birdwatchers, horseriders and rock climbers. Its white, sandy beaches are ideal for those who want to shun all activity and flake out.

Boutiques selling surfing clothes litter the town and we found the Cafe Azul had the best ham and cheese pancakes we'd ever tasted. Down at the sea, local fisherman still use the Almadraba method of fishing from the 13th century, involving a circle of boats and nets spread between them. There is also a lovely church in the town, San Mateo, which dates back to the 16th century.

Not content with the beautiful views of North Africa from our cafe table, however, we decided to take the fast ferry to Tangiers in Morocco.

The trip cost 45 euros return, and took about 50 minutes on ferries

which leave several times each day. There's no need to worry about changing money in Tangiers as most places happily accept euros.

Although not beautiful, the port was a memorable experience and the locals were wonderful and friendly as we headed to the medina to explore the dense array of little streets, houses, shops and market stalls.

The Petit Socco, a small square lined with hotels and restaurants, was also perfect for sipping sweet mint tea. People carried wheelbarrows filled with melons and vine-ripened tomatoes past us and women set up stalls selling metres of handbeaded fabric.

With our bellies full of delicious couscous, we headed back to the ferry

and Spain.

As we pulled up at The Old Forge a few hours later, the sun was setting and we could hear cow bells ringing in the distance. Climbing upstairs to rest, we mused that Andalucia's mix of languid, lazy living and fun days out is just about perfect.

TRAVEL FACTS

Jane Kirby travelled with Andalucia holiday specialist Spain at Heart, which offers seven night self-catering stays at The Old Forge from £512 per person for the rest of summer 2005, including Gatwick-Malaga flights and Group C car hire. Flights available from most regional airports, from £130 per person. Spain at Heart enquiries: 0137 381 4222 or www.spainatheart.co.uk

British Airways twice daily Gatwick-Gibraltar return flights start at £69 including all taxes. More information is available from ba.com or 0870 850 9850.

Jane Kirby's car hire was provided by Blands (www.blands.gi)