Over the past few years few wines have been as disappointing as branded Bordeaux blends.

Even the market leader, Mouton-Cadet, lacks the authenticity of classic Claret. You can't help getting the feeling that these wines have been made to meet low price points set by supermarket buyers.

They have done little to help Bordeaux's rapidly failing reputation which is due, in no small part, to excessive planting of new vines during the 1990s in mainly unsuitable ground.

Recognising the problem in 1994 Yvon Mau set up a 30-strong Producers Club from where they source Premius, that is in every sense a cut or two above the average Bordeaux brand.

It is made by this leading merchant in partnership with top growers. Mau's vineyard specialists work closely with them to help maintain healthy vines in natural toxic-free environments.

The grapes are only harvested when they reach perfect phenolic ripeness. The fruit is then fermented in stainless steel tanks under the supervision of Mau's winemaking team.

The best is selected for going to the merchant's pristine winery at Gironde-sur-Dropt for six months ageing in a combination of French and American oak barrels. It is then blended - 60 per cent Merlot, 35 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 5 per cent Cabernet Franc - and bottled in a special embossed bottle with an outline of the man on the penny farthing bicycle.

This is an allusion to the company's early days when Yvon Mau cycled round the growers buying their best wines for blending and bottling.

You'll find Premius 2002 at Tesco for £6.64. It may not be the cheapest branded Claret on the block, but it is perhaps one of the most genuine. It certainly more than meets my Triple A standard of being approachable, agreeable and affordable.

If you can, open the bottle an hour before you serve it at room temperature. Whatever you do, don't stand it on a radiator or in front of a fire, you'll just drive off all those elegant red fruit, gamey (leather & venison) and spice aromas and long, rich plum and soft fruit flavours that marry so well with local new season's lamb.