THREE bottles of Nando’s peri-peri dressing sit alone, unwanted, at the back of my kitchen cupboard.

Every now and then, when takeaway pangs take hold, my brain’s taste receptor tells me it fancies a Nando’s, but each time, rather than go through the hard labour of marinating chicken myself, I will trundle into Worcester for the easy alternative.

Seemingly always packed with hungry diners, Nando’s in Friar Street enjoys a prominent position next door to the Vue cinema and does a good job enticing people who want a quick bite before, or after, a film.

On this occasion, I’m keen to get out of the cold and into the warmth of the Portuguese eaterie.

We are greeted with bright decor, ambient music, the sound of people chattering and the unmistakable smell of chicken being cooked.

So far, so mouthwatering. We wait a couple of minutes to be seated.

but the table we’re offered leaves little to be desired – next to the lavatories and directly in a draught every time the door opens – so we ask, politely, to move because we spot a free table.

Our waitress is somewhat put out by the request – admittedly it is a busy Friday night – but she grudgingly obliges.

To say there was a choice of chicken, chicken, or chicken, is a little harsh because Nando’s, a franchised chain that began in South Africa, has clearly put effort into varying the menu.

There are vegetable burgers, pitta breads stuffed with mushroom and halloumi cheese, salads and steak rolls. We, however, predictably choose dishes of chicken.

I opt for a quarter of a flamegrilled chicken, marinated in medium strength peri-peri spice, with a side order of chips and spicy rice (£5.80).

My friend has chicken breast in a lemon and herb peri-peri, stuffed into a pitta bread, with chips and flame-grilled corn-on-the-cob (£5.80). We also order a mixed leaf salad (£3.60).

For almost 20 minutes – a long time in Nando’s land – we wait impatiently.

We notice a dozen or so plates crammed under the hot lamps, ready to be taken to tables.

When the food arrives, the salad is sad and limp. The peppers are slimy and the lettuce unpleasantly warm.

Thankfully, our waitress agrees to bring replacements. The succulent quarter chicken is perfectly spiced; hot without taking attention away from the taste. My friend’s pitta is tasty, too, even if the corn tastes somewhat bland.

Nando’s fare may not be mindblowing or life-affirming, but it is always enjoyable and satisfying.

Minor hiccups did not detract from the easy-going, continental atmosphere and we leave knowing that we will return.

Total cost, including two bottles of fruity Savanna cider and a refillable soft drink, is a very reasonable £27.30.

How it rated

Nandos, 55-59 Friar Street, Worcester Telephone: 01905 731797

Food *** Value for money **** Ambience **** Service *