DINING out in a hotel restaurant might not set you salivating but we were quietly impressed by what the Fownes Hotel in Worcester had to offer.

We booked at the on-site Kings Restaurant on a chilly winter weeknight so I was glad of a warm welcome at reception.

It certainly isn’t the first place I would think of to eat out in Worcester and there is nothing outside the hotel to welcome walkins, but once through the front door it’s a short walk through corridors to the restaurant.

The look of the room is what you might expect of such a regal name but, I think, is a little dated for the contemporary eaterie market and focused on catering for hotel guests.

Regency-style with white woodwork and patterned wallpaper suits the hotel but it looks like something from an Agatha Christie whodunnit and it wouldn’t work on the high street.

To the menu. Three courses will cost you just shy of £25 (£24.95) per person without drinks but with a broad choice we had to ask our waiter for another five minutes while we conferred. As it happens, service was very impressive and we were given space to have a good natter over our plates all evening.

I eventually went for the pigeon with a Worcestershire Sauce marinade on a bed of lettuce, tomato and onion with a deliciously sweet cranberry compote.

The sauce was a welcome nod to the city’s culinary heritage and its sharp taste added a kick to the succulent fillets, although the fresh salad was a little sad-looking.

My better half picked the duck with plum sauce wrapped in savoury pancakes, which looked appetising.

The meat was juicy, not overcooked and the plum sauce tingled the tongue but the pancakes were soggy.

Fish for my main course came as a char-gilled halibut draped on taglitele with chilli and herbs.

The pasta was not overdone, the fish full and flavoursome and went down nicely with the spark of chilli.

My fiancée ordered classic spicy chicken and mushroom fajitas with flour wraps, guacamole and salsa, which wasn’t over seasoned, tasted good and hit the spot.

To finish, she plumped for the deliciously chunky winter fruit crumble with a light vanilla custard – just the job to fend off the weather outside.

I chose the rather richer white chocolate torte drizzled with dark chocolate and finally felt totally relaxed by the time I put down my spoon and fork.

There is more to this anonymous hotel restaurant than meets the eye with the total bill, including a couple of drinks, a respectable £54.70.

HOW IT RATED

Kings Restaurant at the Fownes Hotel, City Walls Road, Worcester.

Telephone: 01905 613151

Food **** Value for money *** Ambience * Service ****