ANYONE who has ever called into Mac and Jac’s brilliant deli in Friar Street, Worcester, will already be aware of the outstanding range of luxury foods on offer.

But less well-known is that tucked away upstairs, the owners are hiding a tiny licensed cafe where you can sit and enjoy a fabulous lunch or early evening meal in beautiful Tudor surroundings.

We call by one mid-afternoon, after the lunchtime rush, when the cafe feels quiet and relaxed and we can be sure of finding seating for four.

The tables are few in number, with plenty of space in between – it’s refreshing to find somewhere more concerned about its customers’ comfort than how many extra people can be shoe-horned in at one time.

We sit among the high wooden beams and unobtrusive works of art and chat to the owners, delighted to be served by people who feel such an obvious sense of pride in their wares.

They are right to do so.

Wisely, we choose the shared grazing plate (£8.50) to start. It’s an imaginitive selection of some of the exquisite delights from the deli downstairs.

What’s staggering is how much of the fare is actually made on the premises, from the firm, nutty bread to the chunky port terrine with its tangy accompanying pickle.

The chef proudly talks us through what’s on the platter – two types of tapenade, sun-blushed tomatoes, an unusually powerful cheddar, mixed olives, goats’ cheese, serrano ham, smoked salmon and all the rest.

The creamy leek and potato soup (£4.50) we order alongside is decent enough, but almost pales into insignificance by comparison.

Amazingly, the main courses maintain the sky-high standards.

Two of our party choose salads – one with chicken and bacon (£8.50), one with serrano ham and roasted peppers (£9) – and each looks magnificint; the plates piled high with rocket, flakes of parmesan and other generous additions.

Equally impressive is my vast pork pie (£7.50) – again made expertly on the premises – the firm, peppery filling accompanied by more of that rare quality cheddar and pickle. Only the salmon and lemon fishcake (£6.25) is a slight disappoinment. It’s deemed just a little overpowering.

We wash down our meals with a combination of decent wine, bottled ale and unusual juices (try the sparkling ginger, or local pear), and from the array of home-made cakes on offer we somehow manage to squeeze in an outstanding piece of pecan nut tart (£3.95) and an outrageous triple chocolate chip brownie (£2.70).

It’s worth adding that if you’re after something smaller and simpler than our somewhat extravagant blow-out, the sandwiches look really good value at just £3.55 each.

But the fact is this epic threecourse meal costs us just £15 a head – and a finer lunch in Worcester you will struggle to find.

How it rated

Mac and Jac’s 44 Friar Street, Worcester.

Telephone: 01905 731331

Food ***** Value for money **** Ambience **** Service *****