MASTERCHEF judge and restaurateur John Torode can talk about beef until the cows come home.

His new book, John Torode’s Beef (Quadrille, £20), is devoted to all things bovine – from the most succulent steak to offal and other cuts that have fallen from favour in recent years.

It’s not for the squeamish or parttime vegetarian, but a passionate head-to-tail celebration of this mighty meat.

The Australian chef, who has lived in the UK for more than 25 years, says he felt compelled to write the book after realising that many people felt confused about what cuts of beef to buy – and how to get the best out of them.

He said: “When I opened Smiths of Smithfield in 2000, I was already well into my love affair with all things to do with beef, but eight years on the relationship is well and truly cemented.

“So much of what I have read about beef is pointed toward the selected and lucky few, who have bags of cash and can afford to spend huge swathes of money.

“Good meat is not cheap, but it should not break the bank either, and there are plenty of butchers who are more than willing to give you sound advice.”

While he champions the work of the Rare Breeds Survival Trust, a conservation charity devoted to Britain’s native livestock, Torode is a realist.

He said: “I know full well that most people do go to the supermarket and the majority of Britons do most of their weekly shop in big stores.

“So, I’m happy to tell you that one thing the supermarkets do really well is cuts for stewing and braising. You can’t go wrong with great hunks of shin – it can’t be beaten for flavour and texture."

But he does want to encourage people to find a local butcher, who they can get to know and trust.

Torode says: “My father always said ‘You can’t beat a good pie’, and no truer word was spoken. Great pies are full of great filling and the great fillings come from rich, slow-cooked beef.”

Serves 6

Ingredients

1 sheet ready-rolled shortcrust pastry

1 egg, beaten

3 large potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced

50g (1½ oz) butter, melted, for brushing

For the filling:

50g (1½ ozs) butter

2 small onions, finely chopped

1kg (2lbs) beef clod (from the muscly neck area, great for mince) without too much fat, chopped

80g (2¾ ozs) plain flour

250ml (1.7 fl ozs) beef stock

2 thyme sprigs

2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

1 handful chopped parsley

Salt and pepper

1 pinch grated nutmeg

Method

First make the filling. Melt the butter in the saucepan. Add the onions and fry over medium heat until they soften.

Add the beef and fry, pressing down with a fork until it has browned. Drain off the pan juices, adding them to the stock.

Sprinkle the flour over the meat, stir, and continue cooking for another two minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and gradually add the stock, mixing well.

Return the pan to the heat and stir constantly until the mixture boils and thickens.

Add the Worcestershire sauce, thyme, parsley, salt and pepper and nutmeg.

Cover the pan and leave to simmer over a low heat for 30 minutes.

Heat the oven to 240C/464F/gas Mark 9. Line your pie tin with the shortcrust pastry and prick the base several times with a fork. Cover with a sheet of greaseproof paper and weigh down with baking beans.

Bake blind for 20 minutes, then lift out the paper and baking beans and brush the pastry case with beaten egg.

Decrease the oven temperature to 190C/374F/gas 5. Spoon the filling into the pastry case and top with the sliced potatoes.

Brush the potato with lots of melted butter, then put the pie into the oven and bake for 50 minutes to one hour.

Serve with tomato ketchup.