A MOTORWAY junction doesn’t sound too promising a location for a lunchtime bite, but the Three Pears, Warndon, Worcester, actually puts many pubs in prettier spots to shame.

This outpost of the Beefeater chain can be found in a business park close to junction six of the M5 and shares its giant car park with a budget hotel. Despite the less-than-glamorous surroundings, it would have been nice to have sat outside on this hot summer’s day, but the tired-looking picnic benches and slough of cigarette packets on the ground persuaded us otherwise.

In fact, the cool, dark restaurant decorated in deep hues and hung with colourful canvases was a better option. Despite the Beefeater tag, you don’t have to be a snarling carnivore to eat well at the Three Pears. Meat-eaters are, of course, well catered for, with much of the menu devoted to various chargrilled cuts – the house speciality.

But it’s often in the less obvious reaches of the menu that a restaurant’s true worth can be found, and our choices showed that Beefeater is attempting – and often managing – to move away from its 1970s roots and try something different.

Starters were spot-on. The breaded mushrooms were succulent and encased in just the right thickness of herb-rich coating, while the potato shells – hollowed-out skins filled with brie which made a welcome change from the usual wedges – were perfectly crisped.

Mains, however were a more mixed bag. The quesadilla – the name seems to be a conflation of the Spanish words for ‘cheese’ and ‘sandwich’ – was a valiant attempt to do something new, but the limp piece of pitta bread filled with brie and caramelised onion made you long for two chunky slices of white bread laden with cheddar and pickle.

The Mediterranean tomato risotto, on the other hand, was plate-scrapingly more-ish, if a tad glutinous, and the optional salmon steak on top was seared to perfection.

Desserts were enough to satisfy any chocoholic – the banoffe pie especially is far too delicious for something that also provides one of your five-a-day.

With friendly, efficient service, a relaxed room and food that is definitely on the right lines, the Three Pears certainly does enough to make you forget what’s outside the door.

HOW IT RATED

Three Pears, Wainwright Way Warndon, Worcester.

Telephone: 01905 451240

Food *** Value for money *** Ambience *** Service ***