IT'S almost 25 years to the day that Manchester's music scene ignited with the arrival of The Smiths and their debut single, Hand in Glove.

But even if Morrissey and Marr's miserablist Mancunian musings were never really your particular cup of tea, you shouldn't let that put you off a trip to this absolute gem of a bar in Worcester city centre.

For many years known to all and sundry as the White Hart, the transformation this Sidbury hostelry has undergone since it was taken over last year is almost total.

The Hand in Glove is effortlessly cool inside, somehow balancing a dark, vaguely Gothic air with an inviting and almost homely atmosphere. The walls are littered with huge baroque-style mirrors and tiny, intriguing works of art. The great antique armchairs are instantly welcoming, while secluded corner booths offer you a certain privacy away from the hustle and bustle of the main bar.

The drinks list is superb, if pricey, with a fantastic range of imaginative cocktails on offer. The choice of beers is also excellent, with several interesting continental lagers available on draft - I have to recommend the dangerously addictive Kupper's Kolsch, although again, it doesn't come cheap.

The loud-ish guitar music is a reminder that this is very much a bar which serves food, rather than a restaurant - indeed, the chef packs up at 8pm so if you're coming down for an evening meal, make sure you get here early.

The food menu is fairly straightforward, concentrating on reasonably-priced and well-executed bar meals based upon excellent locally and regionally-sourced ingredients.

My advice is to take a look at the first-class selection of gourmet pies (£7.95 with mash and gravy) from the award-winning Bristol producer Pieminister, which frankly I cannot recommend highly enough.

I chose the Mr Porky', a ludicrous name for a phenomenally tasty pastry filled with West Country pork, smoked bacon, shallots, apples, leeks, Somerset cider and goodness know what else, alongside a first-rate sweet potato mash.

My companion enthused about her wild mushroom and asparagus pie, which oozed with creamy white wine sauce, and homemade chunky chips.

The only criticism from either of us was that the red wine gravy was a wee bit overpowering, and maybe would be better served along side the meal rather all over the top of it.

If you're not really a pie sort of person, there is also an excellent range of tapas (each dish between £1.50-£2.95) which can make an excellent starter, drinks accompaniment or a full and varied main course.

Particularly good are the stuffed vine leaves, while the chef's homemade aioli - garlic mayonnaise to you and me - is terrific.

The service is also impeccable - the chef comes over twice to ensure everything is just as we like it.

Best of all, after a hearty dinner, there's no need to heave yourself up and out the door in search of a post-meal drink.

For if it's a great bar you're looking for, the simple fact is that you're already there.

HOW IT RATEDThe Hand in Glove, College Street, Worcester. Tel: 01905 612154Food **** Value for money **** Ambience **** Service *****