A RESTAURANT filled with happy customers is its own best advertisement, and that was the scene we chanced upon at the Blue Bell Inn beside the A38 Worcester-Tewkesbury road near Upton-upon-Severn.

It was a Saturday evening and when we arrived the restaurant was dealing with about 50 diners. As some left, their places were quickly taken by new arrivals.

We were told they were short-staffed, yet the service was prompt and very friendly. Staff were busy, but still made the time to chat with customers. It had the atmosphere of a local pub at which anyone was welcome.

Happy staff, happy customers - you cannot get better than that.

The comprehensive menu, with meals ranging from steak and ale pie to fish and vegetarian dishes and a 10-ounce fillet steak, was supplemented by an equally comprehensive specials board.

Most of the starters were also available in larger quantities as main dishes, while the homemade desserts - priced at £3.95 - ran to a selection of 20.

I started with a tasty farmhouse pâté with toast, chutney and a salad garnish at £3.95, while my companion found her favourite whitebait on the menu. A huge portion for a very reasonable £4.25.

The management take great pride in the steaks they serve, and with good cause. They are bought from a reputable dealer who obviously hangs the prime Herefordshire beef from which they are cut for a considerable time to ensure their tenderness. I took an eight-ounce fillet steak, served with chips, carrots, cauliflower, french beans, peas and red cabbage, at £15.95, plus £1.50 for a pepper sauce. It could not have been more tender.

My companion had grilled salmon supreme with lemon butter, herby potatoes and vegetables, priced at £9.95. The salmon fillet was large and well-cooked. Her only disappointment was the thin butter sauce.

There were so many desserts that it was difficult to choose between them. I eventually went for brandy baskets with Devon toffee ice cream, while she settled on orange and mango cheesecake with cream. Both were a satisfactory end to the meal.

The wine list contained a selection of New World wines, plus a contribution from Spain. My companion had a gin and tonic at £1.65 and we each had a large £4 glass of pinot grigio and a cup of coffee, leaving us with a bill of £54.55 - and well satisfied with our visit to the Blue Bell.

John Abbs

HOW IT RATEDThe Blue Bell Inn, Ryall Grove, near Upton-upon-Severn, Worcestershire.

Food **** Value for money **** Ambience *** Service ****