THAI people are supposed to be famous for their beaming smiles - and with food like this, it's easy to see why.This fine Worcester restaurant's unusual name apparently comes from the fact that in Thailand, there are officially more than a dozen different ways to smile.

Each Siam smile has its own name and proper usage, ranging from the polite to the apologetic.

Now whether the Thais have a name for the I'm-so-full-after-my-delicious-meal-I-can-hardly-stagger-home smile, I'm not sure, but that was certainly the look both myself and my companion were wearing after a first-rate meal at this newly-refurbished Thai and Malaysian restaurant in the shadow of Worcester Cathedral.

Through the unobtrusive front door the smells of lemon grass and ginger were instantly welcoming, as was the small venue's obvious popularity - indeed, the only free table was the one we had booked.

The new-look decor struck a comfortable balance between smart and relaxed, allowing for a laid-back but personal atmosphere.

Especially inviting were the snug-looking alcoves to the rear of the restaurant, offering an extra intimacy for those couples after a romantic table-for-two.

The house wine was good value at £10.50, but even more reasonably-priced was the Thai wine, coming in at under £10 a bottle for those feeling suitably adventurous.

In the interests of research (obviously) we decided to try as many different dishes as possible, by sharing the Chawpraya river banquet, priced £21.95 each - although with main courses ranging from £8 - £15 and most starters costing less than £5, you could certainly eat here more inexpensively than this.

Our mixed platter starter arrived in a beautifully ornate dish, and several of the delights inside were well worthy of the presentation. The prawn toast, in particular, was fantastic, huge and crispy and teeming with flavour, and about a million miles away from the flat, soggy fare of so many low-grade takeaways.

The sweet, sticky ball of noodles was unusual but delicious in a marshmallowy sort of way, while the fishcakes, spare ribs and spring rolls were all decent, if unexceptional.

Next, we shared a vast tureen of Thai soup, piping hot and deliciously overflowing with spicy flavours. It was the dream accompaniment to a miserable winter evening, its watery texture belying a powerful kick that should probably come with sort of health warning.

The Thai green curry was just as full of flavour - though not nearly so dangerous - while even better was the excitingly-named Weeping Tiger, a fantastic dish of rare steak slices smothered in a spicy sauce. Even the fried squid, not normally my first choice of seafood, was surprisingly good, and it was only the sheer volume of food that defeated us in the end. That didn't stop us finishing with ice cream and coffee, however - the perfect refreshing antidote to what had come before.

Smiles all round, then.

SIAM SMILE, COLLEGE STREET, WORCESTER Tel: 01905 611137Service: **** Food: **** Value: **** Ambience: ****