A SUNDAY roast is a deep-seated tradition. They say the Sunday roast is becoming a thing of the past, families are going elsewhere and binning the roast for curry but for me, no other dish brings me more joy than a truly great roast dinner.
It’s safe to say that if you are after a tasty roast look no further than the Marwood.
It might not be the first thing you see on The Tything, the unassuming building looks as though its crammed into a too-small space like a bulky book on a shelf.
Inside is a small bar from where I grabbed a pint of Beacon Gold by local beer-makers Malvern Hills Brewery.
I was told to sit at whichever rustic-looking table I wanted and was handed two menus – a main one and one with the roasts on.
I’ve never had a pint of Beacon Gold before but it was light and slightly peppery which would go on to complement my food well.
Sunday roasts are offered between noon and 4pm and you can take your pick from butter-roasted beef sirloin, a lamb shank which has been slowly braised overnight, pork belly, garlic and thyme roast chicken or sweet potato, lentil and mushroom nut roast.
I plumped for the roast beef which at £14 a pop (lamb shank is £18) is a big-ticket roast.
Add to that, extras such as dauphinoise potatoes, creamed leeks and spinach, buttered greens or pigs in blankets and your meal is leapfrogging the twenty-quid mark.
Nevertheless, it was a flawless plate of food. You’re getting what you pay for. It wasn’t the bland, overcooked, reheated mush of some pub food. Every ingredient on the plate was perfectly cooked.
Each dinner comes with roast potatoes and parsnips, a Yorkshire pudding, gravy and a blob of shallot jam.
The beef was roasted perfectly, slightly pink in the middle, as promised, and superbly seasoned. It was buttery and heavy on the pepper and incredibly succulent.
The roast potatoes were crispy but fluffy and light in the middle, the honey roasted parsnips were beautifully golden and sweet and still had a great snap to them.
The cereal bowl-sized Yorkshire pudding was thin and crispy on the sides but soaked up the gravy impressively.
The sides were the crowning glory. Most are two or three quid and big enough to share.
I opted for dauphinoise potatoes and creamed leek and baby spinach with bacon which were both delicious.
I’ve got to admit, Pub Spy let his guard down here and ordered a lot of cream with his Sunday roast. The potatoes were uniformly thin but still firm, slathered in cream and topped with a beautiful cheese which gave a wonderfully sharp kick to every bite.
The slippery leeks and baby spinach were cooked beautifully, had a great chew and like the potatoes were covered in heaps of rich cream. The smokey bacon went handsomely with the vegetables and both sides were sensational with the juicy beef and Yorkshire pudding.
All in all, this was the best Sunday roast I have had outside the Pub Spy family home. Wonderfully cooked, incredibly tasty and served in a quaint, comfortable and rustic pub.
Many may quibble at the cost – a roast, two sides and a pint cost £25 – but it is certainly above and beyond your normal Sunday dinner. If you’re looking to treat yourself to a fantastic roast, you’re sure to get it at the Marwood.
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