WHAT could be more relaxing than an evening meal at Malvern Theatres restaurant before enjoying a top show?

Well, quite a lot by all accounts.

Having been seated at a table in the bustling dining area adjoining the theatre's reception area, my dining partner and I had no sooner ordered our drinks than the pleasant chitter chatter of fellow diners was replaced by thumping music.

It turned out there was a keep fit class in the adjacent Forum.

Trying to block out the din, we glanced at the rather compact menu (a choice of four starters and four mains) and chose tempura vegetables (£3.95) and duck spring rolls (£3.95) as a taster to our evening.

While waiting we tucked into the bread rolls adorning our table only to have to send them back because they were stale. But fresh ones were soon delivered followed swiftly by the first course.

The vegetables consisted of a rather uninteresting selection of pieces of green pepper and onion, but the batter coating was wonderfully light and crispy and the sweet chilli sauce sweet and sticky.

There was a hefty portion of two duck spring rolls, filled with a generous amount of moist meat and vegetables and a chunky plum and apple chutney.

Next up was red snapper with pak choi and buerre blanc sauce (£13.95) and fillet of chicken with tarragon and mushroom sauce (£12.95).

The fish was mouthwateringly tasty, complemented perfectly by wilted greens and a crushed potato cake. The plentiful portion of creamy, buttery, lemon sauce was moreish and eagerly mopped up.

My companion also enjoyed his chicken, which was cooked to perfection, but he was disappointed that there was not more of the tangy tarragon sauce.

With the keep fit class over, we could enjoy our desserts in peace.

My partner's raspberry and mascarpone fool was a creamy, dreamy concoction that was a light end to a heavy meal.

My individual chocolate tart was a lot heavier and much richer than expected and, although very tasty, half the portion would have been more than enough.

By the end of the meal we were full and set up for the ensuing entertainment - but with just minutes to go before the performance began we were disappointed that we had to prompt the waiting staff for the bill.

However, it came in at a reasonable £54.90 including interval drinks.

MALVERN THEATRES,GRANGE ROAD,MALVERNTel: 01684 567751SERVICE: *** FOOD: *** VALUE: *** AMBIENCE: **