AS I walked up to the Jockey Inn, a small country pub/restaurant, I was greeted by a large sign saying fresh local asparagus was on the menu.

My eyes widened and my tastebuds started to tingle in anticipation. There is nothing quite like local seasonal fruit and veg.

And I discovered this mouth-watering prize had a menu all of its own - succulent asparagus was available as a hot starter with melted butter, in a salad with ham or as a hot main course with a salmon fillet, new potatoes and the obligatory melted butter. After studying the rest of the menu, which is extensive for such a small restaurant with dishes ranging from a Spanish omelette to venison, I began to realise that I was in danger of ordering more food than I could comfortably consume.

So with this in mind, my friend and I decided on two courses rather than three and, with the offer of sampling some of her asparagus from the salmon main course (£13.50), I plumped for the sea bass wrapped in bacon with onions and Thai herbs.

Apart from serving us enormous portions, the food was excellent. The salmon fillet was almost big enough to feed two and there was certainly enough asparagus for my friend to allow me a few spears. It was as delicious as I had hoped - sweet and tender. The sea bass (£14.95) arrived dressed in a sort of bacon jacket with slices enveloping two large fillets sandwiched together with the onion and herb filling - just enough to add flavour without overpowering the fish. The bacon didn't seem to add any flavour to the dish and I can only assume it was used to make sure the flesh retained its moistness.

With it came a good helping of new potatoes, carrots, mashed swede, broccoli and fennel. We were both glad we had passed on starters - delicious though they looked.

I wasn't going to skip pudding, even though the main course was very filling. I went for apricot frangipan with ice cream and my friend had rhubarb and ginger pie with custard. The portions were colossal and the quality excellent. This wasn't a question of quantity or quality - we had both.

The pub's restaurant has a cosy atmosphere and we almost felt we had been having dinner at home with the owners. Pretty much all of the food is home-cooked and prepared freshly on the premises - hence the wait - and the owners serve behind the bar as well as wait at tables.

Even the chef popped his head round the door with a cheery smile.

Our meals cost £37.05 and it was money well spent.

THE JOCKEY INN, BAUGHTON, NEAR UPTON-UPON-SEVERN Tel: 01684 592153SERVICE: **** FOOD: **** VALUE: **** AMBIENCE: ****