Birmingham

Neil has explored most British cities but his favourite is Birmingham and he spends many hours tramping its canal towpaths in pursuit of his main interest, industrial archaeology. With Birmingham famously having more miles of canal than Venice, Neil isn’t going to run out of possibilities anytime soon. But there’s more to the city than canals, so while this route does rely mainly on canal towpaths it also includes the fascinating Jewellery Quarter and an optional detour to Edgbaston reservoir.

Three canals are included – the Birmingham Mainline, the Birmingham and Fazeley and the Worcester and Birmingham. The Mainline (which goes to Wolverhampton) has had three incarnations, with James Brindley completing the first in 1772, John Smeaton the second in 1790 and Thomas Telford the third in 1829. Brindley and Smeaton are commemorated by small sculptures on the side of the International Convention Centre, and Telford by all the surviving examples of his engineering genius.

As you approach Winson Green on the Mainline towpath there is an opportunity to visit Edgbaston reservoir, which is not in Edgbaston, but in Ladywood. It was originally called Rotton Park Reservoir and was designed and built by Telford in 1826 to supply water for topping up the canal. It’s now a valuable habitat for numerous birds, including some unusually tame great crested grebes. From the shores of the reservoir there are good views of a Victorian Gothic tower, which is actually the chimney of Edgbaston Waterworks. Beyond it, in the distance, the very top of another tower is just visible from parts of the shoreline. This is Perrott’s Folly, built in 1758. In the early 20th century the young John Ronald Reuel Tolkien used to pass the two towers on his way to school. Many Tolkien fans believe that the folly and the chimney provided inspiration for the second book in the Lord of the Rings trilogy – The Two Towers. The return leg of the route, through the Jewellery Quarter, is full of interest. The quarter’s unusual architecture has highlights on Charlotte Street, Vittoria Street, Vyse Street, Graham Street and Caroline Street. The Museum of the Jewellery Quarter on Vyse Street is housed in a former factory; to find it, turn left by the ornate Chamberlain Clock, built in 1903 in honour of Joseph Chamberlain MP. Also in the Jewellery Quarter is St Paul’s Church, built 1777-79. There are also some other pleasant surprises at intervals along the route. Examples include a lovely row of late-Georgian houses at George Street West in Hockley, unlikely survivors marooned on a 1960s housing estate; and Dhammatalaka Peace Pagoda, its gilded Burmese-style roof soaring exotically above the grey streets of Ladywood.

FACTFILE

Start: New Street Station; grid ref SP069866 (or Edgbaston Reservoir SP044866).

Length: 7½ miles/12km.

Maps: OS Explorer 220, OS Landranger 139 or any Birmingham street atlas.

Terrain: Towpaths, urban and suburban streets; no hills.

Footpaths: Excellent. Stiles: None.

Parking: Town hall car park on Navigation Street/Brunel Street, or Edgbaston Reservoir.

Public transport: LondonMidland train or First 144 bus, daily; worcestershire.gov.uk/bustimetables or 01905 765765, london midland.com or 08745 484950.

Refreshments: Numerous pubs, shops, cafés, takeaways and restaurants but special mention goes to Canalside Café Bar at Gas Street Basin and Floating Coffee Company at Sherborne Wharf.

DIRECTIONS

1 Take Stephenson Street, which is off New Street, below the Pallasades entrance to the station, and behind Waterstones. Turn left by Coffee Lounge on Navigation Street (no sign) and keep straight on past Pinfold Street, Hill Street, John Bright Street and Brunel Street. Go under Suffolk Queensway and turn left to the Mailbox. Follow the signs to Level Seven then descend steps to the Worcester and Birmingham Canal. Cross Salvage Turn Bridge and keep straight on along the towpath after descending from the bridge. Pass Gas Street Basin, International Convention Centre, Brindleyplace, National Sea Life Centre and National Indoor Arena. Cross a green-painted bridge and then pass under a black-and-white Horseley Ironworks bridge to walk along the towpath of the Mainline.

2 For the optional detour to Edgbaston Reservoir leave the towpath when you come to a place where brick piers suggest that there was once a substantial bridge. A sign indicates a path up to Northbrook Street, Heath Street and Galton Valley. Cross Northbrook Street, turn right to Coplow Street and follow it up to Icknield Port Road. Turn left to cross at the lights, then look for access to the reservoir, indicated by signs for Edgbaston Watersports and Midland Sailing Club. Walk round the reservoir then return to the canal and turn left on the towpath to continue in the same direction as before.

3 At Winson Green Junction cross the canal and turn right, then left on the Soho Loop. Leave the canal quite soon after Western Road Bridge, when you reach grassland planted with silver birches. Walk along Rosebery Street to Herne Close and turn left, then shortly right at a T-junction, on Camden Street. Turn left at George Street West to New Spring Street. Approaching a school, turn right across grassland adjoining Hingeston Street.

4 Cross Icknield Street and soon turn left on Warstone Lane. Go straight on at all junctions until you reach Caroline Street. Turn right to St Paul’s Square, walk across the square and down Ludgate Hill. Turn left on Water Street then right on Livery Street and cross over to find access to the Birmingham and Fazeley Canal. Descend steps to the towpath and turn right under Livery Street Bridge. At Cambrian Wharf pass under Tyndal Bridge but cross over the next bridge to walk past the Malt House. Walk alongside the ICC until you can gain access to it. Walk through it and then across Centenary Square to Paradise Forum and down through Victoria Square to New Street.

Worcester News recommends the use of OS Explorer Maps, your ideal passport to navigating the countryside. This walk is based on OS Explorer 220.